Our vast food chain is an intricate of web of interlocking, dependent parts that all seem to function seamlessly to some chord or tune that human beings are incapable of conceiving without scientific expressions and mathematic equations. How's that for a controversial opening line? So many of my friends and colleagues are working in the field of science and have such a great and deep understanding of the mechanisms at work within our biosphere that I am sure they are grumbling. I am not sure they will agree with my illogical conclusion that there is a greater force at work in this mysterious planet of ours. Ineffable. Indescribable. This force is like a color beyond the visible wavelength spectrum. Costa Rica is a place that brings out notions like this. At certain times it can be an experience of total immersion in the ever expanding and retracting pulse of life. How can we really be a part of this delicate balance, this to and fro of energies?


This concept of the delicate balance of life on this planet became hammered home at Playa Ostional on the central Nicoya Peninsula. At Ostional, as is true with several beaches on both coasts of this narrow country; I was able to witness the massive turtle birth migration. During various seasons, according to tides and other oceanic conditions, thousands (nay, tens of thousands!) of turtles come slip, sliding there way up the beach to lay eggs. Millions -- (billions?) -- of eggs! It was an experience of connecting with the great life force at work on this planet. I have friends who are active in turtle protection organizations, and I have heard of the plight facing these long-lived sea creatures. But only then, at that beach, that night, was the whole powerful process comprehendible. These turtles have been doing this for eons. Human populations were such that they were only a small fraction of the predators that grubbed the eggs that did not perish from other environmental causes. But the hand of man, with that darn opposable thumb, raked in so much more than a "share" of the pie that they ruined it for the rest of the animals that survived off the annual migrations.

Unfortunately, around the world people have got in the way of several species of turtle and their ancient practices that have spawned so many generations of past turtle lives. The native people of these beaches have always used the turtle eggs as a food supply and according to lore as a male potency or aphrodisiac. With a relatively small ocean side community, the two species who utilized these white sand beaches thrived in peace for many years. But in the nineties, as population increased and tourism began to spread into the coastal villages of Costa Rica, the once isolated, virgin beaches near Ostional were becoming used more and more. By overusing the crops of turtle eggs the people were not allowing them the chance to reproduce effectively. This lead to a very effective and revolutionary approach to saving the turtles purported in the late nineties, and it was still showing signs of success according to studies. The approach brings the local people into the fold, which is crucial to its success. Instead of creating animosity with and criminalizing the locals, who have been harvesting this fare for generations themselves, the conservation effort employs the local people. They enforce the policies set forth by environmentalists and gain jobs, retain their rights to harvest eggs, but learn how to do it in a sustainable fashion. Out there on the beach that night with the local tour guide, under a trillion stars and a clearly defined thick, white milky way, I was able to reach under and catch eggs in my hand, feel them, and gently return them to the pit that momma turtle had just dug. Like holding a newborn star in my palm, it was reflecting starlight and it was unique in every way accept by the eye of the spiritually devoid.

ER Harris