Time to paddle. That's what arms are for. I paddled for about ten minutes in one place going nowhere. Every once in awhile I would try to catch a set wave but they were breaking further inside, and I was not in position.


Finally I got into one, carving directly at a pile of rocks that leads up to the foundation for the edge of the parking lot under the bridge. Cutting back and then blasting down the line I worked my way around the point until I saw the boil and a few guys paddling frantically to avoid me. I made the section and then expected more. But that is the case with this place. There is always more expected, but it never delivers. My wave petered out right as it should have been really sucking up and hollow on the inside section. Oh well. At least I was surfing on a stormy day in the Bay Area with the buoys over fourteen feet at 13 seconds and winds blasting up and down the coast.

Paddling back out is like fighting a chaotic river. The current seems to fluctuate all over the place, and you are never sure if you are over the boil of doom until it is too late. I was forced to do at least one duck dive with the boulders in my midst that's for sure!


When I made it out to where the longboarder and I were catching waves I attempted to compliment him on his ride. He signed that he was deaf. Of course my eyebrows rose. I smiled and fake signed riding a wave and pointed to him and smiled. My language for: nice one! He caught at least eight or nine very good waves while I was out, and after I banged up my shins trying to exit the water on the nasty black, slime-coated rocks (well, they're nasty, that's why I mention them three times), I noticed that the longboarder has snapped his eight foot board! It is not that easy to break one of those beefy boards, they weigh a lot, and it looked like it was a high performance longboard built for riding bigger waves. Man, that guy is an inspiration for all of us! Charging out there in sizeable Ft. Point on a longboard, and then snapping the thing, paddling over to his board, tying the broken piece to his foot he swims in carrying both pieces. Without the aid of any sound!


I wear earplugs to prolong the inevitable drilling that I will have to endure some day, and when I first started wearing them it was very awkward. I felt out of sorts trying to catch waves. I got used to the hindrance of sound over time. I suppose we all make do with our shortcomings in life, as this great surfer from this article has in his life. When one has a passion for surfing, or other outdoor sports activities, nothing will stop that person from doing the thing they love!

ER Harris